Artifacts for Sale Similar to what Huaqueros Seek

By Walter Coraza Morveli (translated by David Knowlton)

Holy Week is many things, the axis of the Catholic calendar and the time when huaqueros (wah-kay-rows), grave robbers, hit ancient sites looking for treasure. They say Holy Week is a good time for them to work without fear because God is busy and does not see what they are doing right now. Read the rest of this entry

Olluco with Fish Eggs

By Walter Coraza Morveli, with the help of Brayan Coraza Morveli and Arnold Fernandez Coraza (translated by David Knowlton)

On Good Friday Cuzco commemorates the passion and death of Jesus Christ. It is a day of reflection, where everyone laughs, tells stories, shares experiences. Above all we consider it most important that the family gather together today to celebrate by enjoying a meal of the 12 traditional dishes. These include soups and main courses. This is the custom of the people of Cuzco who celebrate with immense faith, fervor, and devotion every year. Read the rest of this entry

Sighs (Suspiros), a Sweet Meringue

By Walter Coraza Morveli and Arnold Fernandez Coraza (translated by David Knowlton)

Traditional desserts fill the markets and plazas of Cuzco with different colors and tastes every day during Holy Week when Cuzco celebrates. In the markets and plazas gastronomic festivals take hold and in them one finds sales of Cuzco’s traditional Holy Week desserts. Read the rest of this entry

Niches for Candles in Tetecaca

By Brayan Coraza Morveli and David Knowlton

After the big public celebrations of Monday of Holy Week, when the Lord of Temblors enters the city, a different panorama of devotion opens today in Cuzco leading to Easter Sunday. While in the non-liturgical north this may be a time of a now Santa-like Easter Bunny bringing gifts and children getting their picture snapped with an omnipresent rabbit, in Catholic places, like Cuzco, it is more involved. Read the rest of this entry

Stewed Peach Served Up

By Arnold Fernandez Coraza (translated by David Knowlton)

During Easter peaches show up in Cuzco and are an important food for the holiday. Of course they are enjoyed at other times, but during Holy Week they go into one of the traditional set of small servings eaten in honor of the holiday. Read the rest of this entry

The Lord of Temblors

By Brayan Coraza Morveli, Arnold Fernandez Coraza, and David Knowlton

Yesterday was one of the most important events in the ritual calendar of Cuzco. It is up there with the great feast of Corpus Christi and Inti Raymi. While the first focuses on the procession of the patron saints of Cuzco’s various historic parishes to the Cathedral to commune with the sworn patron of Cuzco, the Lord of Temblors, and the second has to do with a recreation of the Inca feast of the sun following its portrayal in the historical writings of the celebrated son of immediate post conquest Cuzco, El Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, the Monday of Holy week, yesterday is when the mysterious and miraculous Lord of Temblors made his entrance to the city. Read the rest of this entry

Lord of Temblors

By David Knowlton

Today is the day. It is a dramatic day when Cuzco’s patron who, throughout the year stays inside the Cathedral, will make his annual exit and procession through the city. Crowds will throng his path and will make an offering to him of the red sage flower called ñuqchu. The Lord of the Temblors, the controller of the earth and good fortune, will come out of the Cathedral, hanging on a cross, looking like a dried cadaver and be covered with red, while his palanquin is born by Cuzqueños who take turn sustaining its weight. Read the rest of this entry

Olive Branches and Rosemary for Palm Sunday

Today is Palm Sunday and with it begins Holy Week. Though strongly based in its indigenous past, Cuzco is also strongly Catholic and for the Catholic faithful today begins the most important religious feast of the year. They celebrate with full faith and fervor. Read the rest of this entry

St Francis

By David Knowlton

A very Catholic city, people in Cuzco hung on the edge of smoke rising from the Sistine Chapel yesterday and joined the enthusiasm when an Argentine, Jorge Bergoglio was named Pope Francis I. Though also deeply Inca, the Royal City’s natives claimed Catholicism as their own and today nothing comes close in power to the day, Monday of Holy Week, when the Holy Patron of Cuzco, the Lord of Tembors makes his annual stroll through the city’s streets. The Incas and Rome have become intertwined, like two strands that together make contemporary Cuzco. Read the rest of this entry

Massing in the Plaza at Holy Week

Holy Week in Cuzco

By Walter Coraza Morveli (Translation by David Knowlton)

Without doubt, the expectations for this week are really great.  During this time the city of Cuzco will receive a great quantity of visitors from all over who come to enjoy an extra long vacation declared by the national government to encourge tourism by sharing with us this Catholic tradition. Read the rest of this entry